You park the bakkie before sunrise. The board's been in the back since Tuesday. You walk down to the sand — Muizenberg if you're in Cape Town, North Beach if Durban, Supertubes if the swell's right and you've made the drive. The water is whatever the water is. You paddle out. Two hours later you walk back up, salt-water hair, wetsuit half-zipped, and you reach for the kettle. You feel good. You feel like you used to feel at twenty-eight.
And then Tuesday happens. The shoulders are tight in a way they didn't used to be. You sleep heavily on Sunday night, and you still feel it on Monday. By Wednesday you're considering whether to paddle out on Thursday morning, because Thursday morning used to be automatic, and now it's a decision.
You haven't slowed down. You haven't lost discipline. You eat well. You sleep. You stretch. You've been doing this since you were a teenager. What changed is not your effort. What changed is the ledger the body keeps.
Surfing is resistance training.
For most of the last fifty years, surfing has been narrated as a lifestyle — a thing you do at sunrise, not a thing you train for. The wetsuit, the bakkie, the dawn patrol coffee, the stoke walking back up the sand: it's framed as identity, not exercise. There's truth to that. There's also a quiet biological fact the framing leaves out.
A two-hour session is a thousand paddle strokes through the lats, the rear delts, the long head of the triceps and the rotator cuff. It is forty pop-ups, each one an explosive concentric effort through chest and hip flexors. It is a hundred duck dives. Surfing-Waves estimates older surfers spend more than half of every session paddling — the working volume is in the same neighbourhood as a long row session in the gym, applied through the upper body's eccentric and concentric chains.
None of this is in dispute. Upper-body eccentric work elevates the same blood markers — myoglobin, creatine kinase — that classic muscle-damage research uses to identify trained adaptation. The carriage is a barbell. The paddle is a row. The pop-up is a controlled-tempo squat through the hips and chest. The cellular cost is the same.
The Inertia · Surfing and shoulder injuries · 2022